Official Luthiers Forum!

I just took in a Mando for repairs (many). One of which is a problem playing in tune. When looking at the fretboard it appears , by sight, that many of the frets are slightly ascew. I am wondering...on a F style mando what is the proper scale length? I measured and it appears that center of the saddle/bridge to the nut is 13.6875 inches. IS that "typical" or is the bridge misplaced? I can calculate where the frets should be and compare to this one if I knew what the scale should be. also any tips or "look out fors" would greatly be appreciated.TIA

_________________
Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

dave

when you say that the frets look askew, i take it to mean that the progression of fret slot intervals are not regular/aligned?

13.9 is the scale length i learned for f types, but different makers make f type looking mandos which may or may not have the same scale length.

just double your 12th fret distance and it should put you in the ball park and tell if your bridge is mislocated. sorry it won't help your fret problem.

p.s. how are you measuring to .0001"? must be some kool sort of tool!

crazymanmichael38469.6586689815

HI CM,
I am using digital calipers. I am measuring from fret to fret and then halving the fret thickness. They are way off...some as much as .013"( none consistantly). The overal length measure was just a ruler measurement that wound up being 22/32 and that gave me the four decimal places...no super fancy measuring equipment( unfortunately) Any suggestions? Has anyone done a mando neck reset...do they come out pretty easy? Do you steam the joint same as any other acoustic. Or is it possible to replace the fret board without removing the neck? HELP!!

_________________
Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

what brand of mando is it? is it worth the cost of a complex repair?

did you measure the nut-12 interval and compare to 12-saddle interval? are they even close? are the wear patches under the bridge all over the place or neat and defined? make sure the bridge is correctly located and see how it plays, hosw the client. given the cost of fb replacement before contemplating fb replacement i would make sure the bridge is located correctly and ascertain whether the client is satisfied given the cost of the alternative.

re your measurement of the interfret intervals i'm not sure i understand exctly what you did, but given the configuration of the measuring faces on a dial or digital caliper i think the best method for nut - 1st is to measure fb face of nut to nut face of 1st and add .5*fret crown width. should be 0.782 for a 13.9 scale length. for the others is to measure from nut side of 2d-bridge side of 3d, and then subtract 1*fret width, hopefully giving 0.738. is this what you meant?

re removal of neck; unless it needs to be reset for some reason there is no obvious reason to do so and i would try to avoid it. the fb can be removed using the methods for a guitar fb, though you might find that the fingerboard extension support block loosens and needs to be reglued, and finish touch up will be necessary for cosmetic purposes.

if it is one of the asian clones touch up will not be fun and the cost of doing a mando fb is more than an acoustic guitar board as there are up to 30% more frets.

let me know how the bridge location exercise goes.

michaelcrazymanmichael38469.8312615741

Thanks Michael,
This thing was built by the players cousin or brother-in-law or someone like that. It does have good projection and tone. However, it is a mess...the frets are off all over the place. The bridge is off as well. He also wants me to strip the thing and re-spray it. The binding is real bad. Who ever put the binding on didn't have a clue. Big job...no money...BUT! he does have a Martin SWDGT Smart Wood Dred - solid Cherry. He wants to trade for the work. I looked it up the guitar lists for $1649.00 and sells new for $1249.00. SO...I figure it might be worth about $750 used...I don't know
But there is no rush so I figure it could be a fun side project. Thanks so Much for your input. Any other L.O.F.'s (look out for's) are mucho appreciated!

_________________
Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

at that value it is doubtful that the martin is adequate compensation. probably not if you are going to rebind it also.

sounds like he freehanded the frets. i can send you the fret intervals if you need them. or are you going to get a pre-slotted board.

like to hear how the job goes.

crazymanmichael38470.427025463

Thanks CM,
I have a Blue print that lists all the intervals( or I could just calc. using 17.817) but I am probably just going to get a pre-slotted board. Otherwise I have to make a template...I don't know.

Yea I thought that was a good deal too... for HIM! It will just be my little side project. He's a good customer otherwise. It will make for some good customer relations.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE OFFER AND THANKS FOR THE ADVICE!

_________________
Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"